Three birders from Germany and I enjoyed a 2 week birding trip through northern Botswana, Caprivi and Victoria Falls.Most of our time was in Botswana, but we were
Namibia – Windhoek to Gobabis, 14-15 Oct
We met in Windhoek in Namibia on 14 October in the morning and hired a Toyota Hilux from there. Our birding started at the airport with 4 swift species (including Bradfield’s Swift, an arid zone swift) and some other birds.
From the airport we drove to Avis Dam to continue our birding. We obtained a good list with some highlights being Rockrunner, quite a few wader species, and an obliging Mountain Wheatear. We had lunch at the Vineyard Country Lodge, while being entertained by birds visiting the bird feeder: Rosy-faced Lovebird, Southern Masked Weaver, Red-headed Finch and Southern Grey-headed Sparrow. Other species were seen too, including Speckled Pigeons sun bathing on the lawn.
Our first night was spent at West Nest Lodge, near Gobabis. There was great birding that afternoon and following morning, around the lodge and walking in the surrounding savanna. A large flock of Namaqua Sandgrouse came to drink at the small pond near the lodge. A Kalahari Scrub-Robin entertained us with its Some specials included Fawn-colored Lark, Rufous-naped Lark and Tinkling Cisticola. A colony of at least 7 male Southern Masked Weavers were actively building nests outside the restaurant area.
On our way we stopped at the Tilda Viljoen Dam in Gobabis and added substantially to the current ebird list for the site, especially several waterbird species.
Central Botswana, 15-16 Oct
Soon after crossing the border into Botswana, we stopped along the road for a Greater Kestrel. A group of 14 Scaly-feathered Finches were resting in the shade of a small bush [around 4pm; our car showed the temperature to be 36°C].
Our first night in Botswana was at the Palm Afrique Lodge. The grounds attracted common birds,including doves, hornbills, starlings, African Palm Swift, Groundscraper Thrush, Southern Pied-Babbler and Red-billed Buffalo-Weavers nesting in a tall tree. Bushveld around the lodge area had many savanna species, including Grey Go-away-bird, Common Scimitarbill, Lilac-breasted Roller, Crimson-breasted Shrike, Fork-tailed Drongo, Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler, and Kalahari Scrub-Robin.
Driving north, we stopped briefly at Lake Ngami but did not get close to the water. The most common bird (other than a large flock of Red-billed Quelea) in the very dry surroundings was the Cape Turtle-Dove. We found some Black-shouldered Kites, Swainson’s Spurfowl, Capped Wheatear and others.
Driving along the A35 towards Nokaneng we were intrigued to find quite a few Red-billed Oxpeckers on donkeys and cows.
Botswana, Okavango pan-handle, 16-19 Oct
Our longest stay on this trip was 3 nights, and this was at Askiesbos in Shakawe. We recorded some 35 species in the camp for the short times that we were not birding elsewhere. Some specials were African Green Pigeon, African Goshawk, and Orange-breasted Bush Shrike. An African Golden Weaver pecked at his reflection of my outdoor mirror every morning! Nocturnal birds that were heard calling (unfortunately not seen!) were Pels Fishing Owl and African Wood Owl.
The most diversity of any birding session was our morning boat cruise from Askiesbos across the Cubango River, as we glided past some lodges, along the papyrus lined river, and finally a short walk on the opposite shore.
Some special birds were African Pygmy Goose, Long-toed Lapwing, African Skimmer, Slaty Egret, Black Heron, Squacco Heron, Green-backed Heron, African Harrier-Hawk (sitting on the shore line), various kingfishers and bee-eaters, and both oxpecker species. On the opposite shore, Collared Pratincoles flew around us and perched on the ground with amazingly close view.
In the afternoon we continued our boat cruise in a northerly direction and were excited to find White-backed Night-Heron, Broad-billed Roller and other species.
While in Shakawe we used the opportunity to visit Tsodilo Hills, a world heritage site. Near the site we had great views of Red-crested Korhaan next to the road. The birding at the hills was good, especially at a small pool of water where starlings, weavers and finches came to drink.Raptors were represented by Bateleur, Yellow-billed Kite, Pearl-spotted Owlet, and African Barred Owlet.
We also visited a waterhole near Askiesbos camp (that we discovered accidentally when initially looking for the camp!). Here we had 6 dove species, some waders, Marabous, and 4 bee-eater species (White-fronted Bee-eater, Little Bee-eater, European Bee-eater, Southern Carmine Bee-eater).
Namibia, Caprivi region, 19-21 Oct
On our way to the Caprivi, we drove slowly through the Mahango Core Area to bird. We saw many waterbird species, Lappet-faced Vulture and White-backed Vulture, Purple Roller, Red-breasted Swallow, and Willow Warbler, and others. Our journey proceeded to Caprivi Houseboat Lodge in Katima Mulilo where we spent a pleasant 2 nights. Specials in the campsite area included White-crowned Lapwing, perfect view of Finfoot (for one of us, not me!), Schalow’s Turacos, Lesser Honeyguide drinking at the bird bath, Black-backed Puffback, Brown-crowned Tchagra, good views of Orange-breasted Bushshrike, Yellow-breasted Apalis, and Yellow-bellied Greenbul.
On our middle day here we decided to visit Nkasa Lupala NP. As we checked directions while parked in Katimo, we noticed an African Cuckoo in a tree right next to us, and it obliged us with long views!
On our drive we saw Black-chested Snake Eagle and White-crested Helmetshrikes. In the Nkasa Lupala NP we found a great selection of birds including Bateleur, Brown Snake Eagle and many others.
Botswana, Chobe region, 21-23 Oct
From Katimo we drove to Mwandi View for 2 nights, a lodge overlooking the Chobe floodplain. As we arrived, we observed hundreds of pelican and egrets and storks (including a single Saddle-billed Stork) densely congregated in a part of the river. It was a spectacular sight! On following days the same species were seen but in much smaller numbers – clearly the masses moved on to other foraging areas. Crested Francolin in the lodge area were tame but noisy! We saw both Brown-crowned and Black-crowned Tchagra, and both Swamp and Tropical Boubou. Magpie Shrike foraged near the pool every day. Birds cam to drink at the water in front of the lodge dining area, including some new species for the trip – Greater Honeyguide, Southern Yellow White-eyes, and Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah. Some other specials here were White-browed Coucal, melanistic Gabar Goshawk, and Burnt-neck Eremomela.
While staying at the lodge we drove into the Chobe NP (Ngoma gate). We saw many waterbirds including large numbers of African Openbill, 2 Hooded Vultures, and a group of Southern Ground-Hornbill. We enjoyed the large number of elephants, herds right next to the road and others swimming in the river below our view point.
Zimbabwe, Victoria Falls, 23-25 Oct
We drove to Kasane where we were transferred to Victoria Falls – the transfer was straight forward compared to the potential delays of crossing the border ourselves. we stayed at the Bayete Guest Lodge where we did see a few good birds, but spent more time in the large swimming pool than birding (this was the largest pool on our trip).
On the morning of our middle day, we visited the Victoria Falls NP. It was wonderful to see the falls, although at a fairly low flow rate at this time of year. At one point we still experienced some spray. It was interesting to see Three-banded Plover and Common Sandpiper feeding on the rocks near the edge of the falls. We added Grey-headed Kingfisher and Trumpeter Hornbill to our trip list. We found a group of birds mobbing a hidden predator, presumably snake, near the ground. The species included Dark-capped Bulbul, White-browed Robin-Chat, Collared Sunbird, a pair of Spectacled Weavers, and later an African Golden Weaver.
In the afternoon we went on a supper boat cruise on the Zambesi River. We saw a variety of waterbirds before encountering a herd of elephant in the river shallows. A flock of cattle Egret was following the elephant to forage on the disturbed invertebrates. As the sun set we found a large herd of buffalo drinking at the water’s edge.
Botswana, Kasane to Maun, 25-26 Oct
We were transferred back to Kasane and fetched our rental vehicle at the Travelodge. As we packed our luggage we noticed a Collared Palm-Thrush close by. We had dipped on this species in Victoria Falls, and now we had long, close views. I could record its melodious song too. We visited the Chobe Safari Lodge to do some early afternoon birding. As we started we again had stunning views of Collared Palm-Thrush. We were also pleased to find Bearded Scrub-Robin and a range of other species.
The following morning we had a long drive to Maun from our Top Stay Inn accommodation. As we left we saw Common Myna, an invasive species that has expanded its range from Durban to Zimbabwe and beyond. Not far out of Kasane we noticed two Broad-billed Rollers providing great views, and Red-breasted Swallows. Further south we saw a perched White-backed and our first Southern White-crowned Shrike. Near Pandamatenga we found a small lake where we enjoyed birding for quite some time. A Tawny Eagle flew over, many waterbirds were seen, and we found a Cinnamon-breasted Bunting.
In Maun we stayed at the Island Safari Lodge on the Thamalakane River. To the variety of waterbirds we also added Knob-billed Duck. A Senegal Coucal crept in the long grass, occasionally allowing views. We added our first Kurrichane Thrush for the trip. We found a walking trail through the savanna and would have walked further if there had been time.’
The other 3 birders enjoyed a few more days of birding, while I was taken to the airport (to prepare for my next tour), but leaving with many happy memories and photos!
